I'm going to throw a vote in for GoLive because it isn't entirely as crappy as some would have you believe. Yes, it created the most incredibly bloated rollover scripts in earlier versions but its CSS support and its "structure" view beats anything else I've ever seen when you're trying to "see" you code. It allows you to "open" DIVs and other structural elements that have open/close calls like you do with folders in classic OS 9 mode. Spotting overlapped or missing DIVs is intuitive and allows you to spot problems quicker than dragging your eye through raw code.
The palettes aren't nearly as nasty as they're made out to be, and in the old version I'm running they DOCK to the side of the screen when inactive, thereby giving you lots of screen real estate. I personally find Dreamweaver's palettes bizarre and hard to work with in many situations. There's a certain "built with Flash" feel to the Macromedia apps that make them feel un-Mac-like at times - not sure what it is.
For someone who lives inside of Illustrator and Photoshop most of my workday, the GoLive palettes begin to make sense. Especially the CSS palette (though I personally enjoy using CSSEdit). I have been using Dreamweaver more lately, though I don't know why... especially since I can get it all done in SubEthaEdit or BBEdit just as easily. Using a WYSIWYG editor for handcoding is rather silly.
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