Space Pirate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
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Unable to find a plumber willing to do the work, I am looking to begin replacing the run of cast iron sewer pipe beneath my slab, in STAGES.
The first run will span about 6 or 7 feet, from the vent to beneath some stairs. Years ago Dad chipped out a 24 inch trench around the pipe just beyond the vent stack. For years it's been handled with Ferncos and Fiberglas wrappings. Now I plan to create a second 24 inch opening about 4 or 5 feet further along, and cut the pipe there, replacing that initial run with PVC and introducing a clean-out. I'll run the pipe between the two holes, possibly gluing together segments, to allow me to avoid opening up the full trench between them (at one point this dives under a furnace box). I need to determine the recommended place to include that clean-out. Any ideas? The longer runs are going to be ugly fixes, but this could be kind of fun. ... |
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Space Pirate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
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I pulled up a couple of stairs so I could access the area. While sitting under that space I reviewed the current conditions: ![]() My intention was to remove all the cast iron pipe from Trench 2 back to the vent stack. ![]() HOWEVER. The section that runs beneath the slab really concerns me, as I've no idea if I can remove it cleanly or not. I realized that the "trenchless" cast-in-place pipe runs through the old pipe, so perhaps I could run a smaller PVC pipe through the cast iron pipe. The connection would happen at trench 2. ![]() Then I realized that there was one more version of this that would allow me to skip digging a 2nd trench. ![]() I will NOT be able to get a hand-on look at the conditions under the slab at that point, but it would allow me to punt the ball into warmer weather. It would also allow me to add a clean-out, something it's never had. With a clean-out in place, I can rent a drain camera and do a full inspection on my own. So what do you think? ... |
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Lord of the Rant.
Formerly turtle2472 Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Upstate South Carolina
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This happened to my neighbors when I lived in Va Beach. They had to jackhammer the whole length of the pipe. It was covered by their homeowners insurance, but it was still brutal and required a long repair process.
My concerned is that any pinch-point you create is going to give somewhere for crap to collect, literally. You might find you're having to clean out so frequently. 4" is the recommended for toilet sewage for a reason. Getting a 3 1/2" or something like that inside is likely to be just less than fun all around. Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a notion of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.” MineCraft? mc.applenova.com | Visit us! | Maybe someday I'll proof read, until then deal with it. |
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Space Pirate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
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I pulled the plug yesterday. Instead of a do it myself job it's turned into a clean up the basement enough to bring in professionals job. Know your limits.
(and thanks for that very good and real example) ... |
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¡Damned!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Purgatory.
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If you're bring the pros in ask about pipe liner instead of a full pipe replacement. Liner isn't something I'd do myself, but plumbing guys have the know how and in most cases can be less expensive than the jackhammer-your-entire-basement route.
So it goes. |
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Mr. Farmiga
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tennessee
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I’ve nothing to add to the actual topic, but I love the drawings above that clearly explained what’s going on and the various options.
I do that sort of thing all the time, to better explain something to a relative or friend. I know I can knock out a simple infographic in 3-4 minutes that will be clearer than me talking/gesturing for 10-15 minutes (or more). Good job. |
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Space Pirate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
It really helps ME to understand it if I draw it up into a diagram. I was so very certain on Saturday that I would be doing version 1 this weekend, but there are so many unknowns. Making a half-ass repair that might create more problems down the line (literally) is just not the way to go. Of course I had removed several stairs and gone underneath to reach that conclusion. The other thing I (finally) realized is that one of the intakes to the furnace just sticks out into that sealed plenum beneath the stairs, using the entire void down there as a great big filter. Every fricking crack is full of cat hair that has been drawn inexorably toward that great sucking pipe. I need to find out the correct place to locate an intake grille, either in the stairs or in the wall on the other side of the stairs, and then to find out what kind of ducting is correct. I'm hoping that flexible tubing would be sufficient, but I just don't know. Also: should that space be sealed with drywall along the bottom of the stairs? It might should. So very much to do... ... |
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Lord of the Rant.
Formerly turtle2472 Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Upstate South Carolina
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I actually thought about this and it might be a good solution here, certainly worth an ask and quote. Likely WAY cheaper than jackhammer. The only real concern is longevity of the "repair". Is it really just a bandaid and headache later down the line for even more total cost of repair.
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a notion of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.” MineCraft? mc.applenova.com | Visit us! | Maybe someday I'll proof read, until then deal with it. |
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Space Pirate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
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I missed that suggestion.
A few months ago I had a tech from a pipe liner company come in to run the scope down the line. I was wholly unimpressed with the video and it did feel like a band aid solution. I want the best solution. Anybody have a warehouse I can borrow while I clear out the basement?? ... |
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