25 chars of wasted space.
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I want to make myself a new bed, because I haven't been able to find a frame for my twin that I like. I want to go simple, but I am not even really sure where to get the wood or how to do some of the type of cuts I want to do. If this goes well, I think I will try and make myself a desk too, because any desks that I think look ok are cheaply build and not very sturdy. But that is really not the point of this thread at this point. I am mostly concerned with my bed right now.
Does anyone have any suggestions of what type of wood to use? I'd like something with a fine grain (for aesthetic reasons), that is light so I can stain it to the two colors I want to use, and a cheap as possible. Can you pick up different woods like this at lumber yards? I've only ever really seen and bought wood for building things like picnic tables or decks. Now seeing as I'd like to do this as simply as possible, I don't want to have too many fasteners, and I want them to be hidden. Does anyone know how you'd cut out a rectangular prism shape? I tried to mock up what I was looking for in the picture below. It's supposed to be a piece of wood with a shape like this cut out from the corner. Keep in mind that I need something like that out out with fairly accurate precision so that it will be a very tight fit. Does this sound like something I can do? |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Pine for the wood, cut the notch with a wood chisel. Work slowly, use sharp tools, and remember you can't uncut what you cut.
You can get furniture quality wood at Lowes or Home Depot. |
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Ruling teh World
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boston, MA
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I did this recently with nice results. My goal was to make a bed-frame that was minimalistic but had plenty of surface area for books and alarm-clocks.
I basically built it in two pieces, all out of 3/4" MDF. The head of the bed was the part with the two shelves, which acted as a support for the second piece, which was the bed plank thing (the big flat part where the mattress sits) with the second set of legs. The flat plank is 1.5" thick. I made it so the two pieces can be disassembled by unscrewing 3 bolts. You could easily simplify this design, substituting the metal legs for wood or something. MDF gets pretty heavy so you may be better off with something less dense. MDF does have great weight capacity and is dead straight, so it is really easy to work with and cut. Just wear a mask when you are doing major cutting. If you do something like this get a mattress pad or something. I haven't missed my box-spring, but I am not that heavy. Maybe try sleeping only on the mattress for a few days before deciding. Good luck! |
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¡Damned!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Purgatory
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I'd suggest using poplar instead of pine, especially if you're planning on chiseling. Pine is generally too soft to get a nice clean chisel, whereas poplar is much harder and stronger. It's not that much more expensive than pine either, for example Lowes has a 1x6x12 for $27 and the Douglas Fir is $19. I think you'll prefer the way poplar stains as well, and it's more knot-free than pine.
As for your diagram, may I ask what it's for? I'm assuming it's a leg, but I want to be sure. So it goes. |
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25 chars of wasted space.
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Yes, that cutout is going to be for the legs/ends. I want the rails to fit snugly into them so that it's just a smooth almost uniform look. I am also trying to figure out how I want to do it, but I want to have the legs hidden so the bed looks like it's hovering off of the ground without having to worry about it tilting if I put my weight on the very edge of the bed. Edit: If/when I get started I'll be sure to take some pictures along the way so that you can see my progress and success or failure If it turns out well, I might even consider incorporating some glass work for the shelves beside my bed. |
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¡Damned!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Purgatory
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Chiseling can be a bitch, especially if you've never done it before and want something super clean. I'd suggest making the legs out of 2 boards and gluing them together. With some edge sanding and stain no one will ever know, and the notch could be cut easily and precisely with nothing more than a jig saw and a piece of wood (and clamps) for a guide. Something like this:
So it goes. |
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25 chars of wasted space.
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Thanks for the alternate method for making those notches. It'll be nice to have a back up in case my practice chiseling doesn't go well
Does anyone know a simple modeling program I can use to try and mock this up? Maybe a simple architecture program? |
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Senior Member
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If you are into building your own, pick a wood that is easy to use. and then get a iron on laminate. This will give you the trendy, but more functional Ikea look. check home depot, they should be able to assist you
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Mr. Vieira
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tennessee
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And you might be able to do a lot with hidden hardware/fasteners (brackets, connectors and whatnot), saving you the trouble of carving/shaping wood. There's an entire aisle at Home Depot and Lowe's devoted to various items meant to connect to two pieces of wood in all sorts of ways. If you did it all with the hardware on the inside, hidden from view, it could look just as clean and neat as anything...and probably about 1/4 the labor and grief.
Then it just becomes a stain (or laminating) job, and less of a precision woodworking/shaping project (unless, of course, you're seeking a woodworking/shaping project...in which case, be sure to read, understand and follow all the instructions that come with your power tools. Using your tools properly will decrease the risk of personal injury. And remember, there is no more important rule than to wear safety glasses). |
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Senior Member
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Someone should really tell my family that. I think every power-tool that we own has had the safety removed in some way. a few summers ago my grandfather impaled himself with a saw, really. he is okay, thank god, but we all still dont learn. i think it is something in our genetics!
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
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http://www.kregtool.com/ If I had only one tool to use to fasten wood together, I would use a Kreg tool. Well, don't take away my glue and clamps or anything... |
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25 chars of wasted space.
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Last edited by ast3r3x : 2007-09-09 at 08:21. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
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I admire your spirit to go about it yourself. Yesterday, I really struggled to get a MALM bed from Ikea properly constructed (it was the penultimate step that took far too long). Mine has an oak finish and is simply marvellous!
By the way, if you use MDF, you should ALWAYS give it a sealed finish, since it leaks chemical fumes into your living space. So especially if you want to use it for a bed, make sure the MDF is not sitting naked in your bedroom. |
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25 chars of wasted space.
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Thanks for the heads up on MDF, although I don't think I'm going to be using that. I am aiming at using real wood right now since I think it'll be nicer in the end to stain instead of using veneer. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
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Twin size, what is that?
These are the options that I know of. 90 cm width, that's one person 120 cm width, which we call in dutch "twijfelaar" or "doubter" 140 cm width, I think is the normal size two person bed (mine's this size). 180 cm width, I think is Queen size I think they've got one in 200 cm width (and 220 cm long) known as the King size. EDIT: Quote:
Last edited by digitalprimate : 2007-09-09 at 11:42. |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Surface prep is the key to a good glue joint. |
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Formerly Roboman, still
awesome Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
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A US "twin" is apparently slightly wider than a Euro "single." Go figure. |
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